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As a general rule I avoid eating
in shopping centers. Mall restaurants are usually over-priced
and over-decorated, and the quality of food does not
approach that of streetside diners. So it was with some
reluctance that I navigated my way through the maze
of shops and beauty salons to the fifth floor of the
Full Link Plaza to sample Arisu's Korean cuisine.
Despite the up-market facade and
smiling hostess at the door, the dŽcor merely confirmed
what I already knew about shopping plaza bistros. An
overdose of gold trimming and bright lights do little
to create a subtle dining ambience. The tables are divided
into compartments which, although more intimate, ensures
Arisu has all the character of a hotel lobby. However,
once I became accustomed to the brightness of the interior,
I could sit back and enjoy my meal in an atmosphere
that is in fact very relaxed and comfortable.
Fortunately, Arisu serves authentic
Korean cuisine. It is an excellent introduction for
anyone with the prejudice that Korean restaurants only
serve our four-legged friends on a plate. The service
is excellent, the waitstaff are polite and, unlike many
restaurants, you are given time to peruse the menu.
Having finally abandoned the notion of being able to
judge an establishment by its menu, I am pleasantly
surprised by the colorful and tastefully presented menu
that is placed in front of me. The lively photographs
make it difficult to make a decision and it is a relief,
therefore, when the waitress suggests a number of dishes
for us to indulge in.
The complimentary side dishes that
accompany the meal are a well-known feature of the 'Hanjoungshik',
or Korean meal, and arrive at our table within a few
minutes of having ordered. These include the usual portions
of cold fine noodles, pickled cabbage, bean sprouts,
and also green beans and battered pork. Previous encounters
with Korean food have brought with it side dishes that
resemble the leftovers of someone else's dinner. At
Arisu however, these dishes are smartly presented and
extremely palatable.
Of these accompanying dishes 'kimchi'-a
spicy pickled cabbage seasoned with pepper and garlic-is
probably the most well known. It is usually offered
as an appetizer to stimulate the appetite before the
main meal although it does appear in a variety of main
dishes as well. A number of different sauces are also
set out on the table and we are informed that these
are for the main dishes. Dipping sauce etiquette can
be a confusing affair for the inexperienced. For although
the hot sauce, yellow bean sauce and mustard sauce are
all distinct in appearance and taste, we are never informed
which dishes they should accompany and therefore spend
the evening dipping our food at random.
In order to fully enjoy the cross-section
of Korean cooking, there are a number of dishes which
are essential to try. At the top of our list is the
Roast Top Grade Steak, or 'kalebi', which is sliced
in such a way that the beef ends up in one long strip
with one end still attached to the bone. The meat is
first marinated in soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil and
other seasonings and is then grilled, either by you
on the small barbeque stove in the center of the table,
or by the waitstaff. This tasty dish is a renowned delicacy
and we are certainly not disappointed. Referred to as
'pulgoki' in Korean, and known in the West simply as
'Korean Barbecue' it is eaten with cucumber and garlic
wrapped in a leaf of lettuce, all of which at Arisu
are fresh and crisp.
The barbecued beef soon disappears
and its place is taken by a mountain of other dishes.
Panfried Octopus and Savory Squid Cake arrive at the
table followed by Kimchi with Dofu, and a host of other
small dishes. The savory cake is a regular feature of
Korean cuisine and is made from a combination of rice,
cabbage and root vegetables, often accompanied by a
light sesame and soya bean sauce. At some restaurants
these cakes can be rather oily, however the variety
served at Arisu are tasty, light and provide a satisfying
alternative to the usual staples, rice or noodles. The
octopus is tender and cooked in a bright red hot sauce
which is full of flavor but not overpowering.
The Kimchi with Dofu is a lesser
known dish but is a welcome break from the spices and
seasonings of the other dishes. Silky tofu squares are
positioned around a serving of pork fried in a hot sauce
with kimchi.
As far as I'm concerned, the test
of any Korean restaurant has to be the standard bibbimbab,
a favorite among regular diners whatever their appetite.
Known by its Chinese name, banfan, this dish consists
of stir-fried rice, a variety of vegetables and kimchi
cooked in an iron pot and mixed together at the table
with a fried egg and hot sauce. This is a dish that
remains consistently good regardless of the establishment
in which it's served. Throughout my bibbimbab experience,
I have only encountered a few that were too oily, and
therefore waited with anticipation as to what Alishui
would produce as their special house banfan. It arrived
at the table and was quickly devoured. While it may
be difficult to go wrong with something that is essentially
fried rice with vegetables, this particular banfan was
extremely enjoyable. The rice, by which all Asian food
must be measured, was neither oily, nor over-cooked
but light, fluffy and tender.
By the end of the meal, we have forgotten
the sterility of our surroundings and are already well
into a post-dining bottle of traditional Korean rice
wine. Although slightly pricey and less attractively
situated than other restaurants, the quality of food
and the first-class service are persuasive arguments
for anyone averse to eating in shopping malls.
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