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Enfin les mecs! Un petit restaurant
Parisien has appeared on Beijing's multinational restaurant
circuit. Situated just behind the not-so-French sounding
Disco Agogo on the East Third Ring Road Nightclub Strip,
Bistro Le Gavroche is nestled between the lively Magic
Carpet Restaurant and the more sedate Wenlian Hotel.
Although it is not quite the Rive Gauche, the four French
owners have managed to create an authentic Gallic hideaway
far from the neon lights of downtown Beijing.
This little coin de Paris has been
created to resemble the genuine article, complete with
black-and-white Doisneau-esque photographs, and the
ubiquitous Perrier adverts which adorn the walls. Upon
entering we are greeted with an enthusiastic 'Bonsoir'
from our waiter and, to our surprise, offered the choice
of fumer ou non fumer--as much a rarity in China as
in France. Eager to practice our much neglected francais,
we tried to embark on a discussion with the local waiter
on the finer details of Descartian theory. Sadly however,
his vocabulary didn't extend past showing us to our
tables and taking our order, but he had extremely helpful
demeanor and an ever-present grin. Like all the bistro
waitstaff, he sported a pair of beige breeches held
up by suspenders and a matching peaked cap. We were
later informed that the uniforms were meant to resemble
the street urchin Gavroche, from Victor Hugo's Les Miserables;
and not, as we had entertained, a cockney chimney sweep
in a Chinese revolutionary opera.
Le Gavroche offers a broad selection
of French food and the menu is ideal for those who are
eager for an evening's dining minus the chore of deciphering
Chinese characters. Indeed, the menu is only available
in English and French which is good news for all Gallophiles,
but not so good for those unfamiliar with the Western
alphabet.
We begin the meal by ordering
an aperitif. I opt for a simple Kier while my companions
choose the two house 'specialty' drinks, a 'Monaco'
and a 'Cervoise.' The 'Monaco'--a mixture of beer, grenadine
and soda--arrives bright pink and bubbling and very
sweet to the taste. The 'Cervoise' in comparison--a
combination of beer, white wine and lemon--is lighter
in color with a dry, almost piquant flavor.
Within minutes, our appetizers
follow. The 'Gravalax Salmon' (L'assiette de Saumon
Marine) is fresh and flavorsome and disappointing only
in that the salad that comes with it is somewhat lackluster.
Similarly, the sizeable and richly flavored portion
of brie that makes up the 'Warm French Brie Resting
on Salad' (La Salade de Brie Chaud) is let down, only
slightly, by the lack of convincingly fresh lettuce.
Our third dish,'Mussels Soup with Saffron' (La Soupière
de Moules au Safron), is simply delicious; creamy without
being too rich and scattered with fresh mussels.
Having previously enjoyed many
a fine French meal, I enter Le Gavroche with some trepidation,
not knowing quite how la cuisine francaise will be prepared
in Beijing. However, the head chef at Le Gavroche is
a Frenchman with a track record of charming Shanghai
diners before moving to the northern capital, so we
wait with interest and appetite for the main course
dishes. The first indication of authenticity comes with
the side portion of vegetables, which, in true Gallic
fashion, are cooked to perfection. The 'Veal Escalope
with Ham and Cheese' (L'Escalope de Veau Cordon Bleu)
arrives with a rich mushroom sauce and the beef is tender
and oozing with flavor. The ample portion of the 'Grilled
Thick Slice Salmon' (Le Pav?de Saumon Grill? is tender
and succulent, covered in a crispy skin and complemented
by a light mayonnaise sauce. The only disappointment
with the meal is the 'Undercut with Shallot Sauce' (L'Onglet
Sauce au Choix) which is our third dish. Although the
beef is very tender, the sauce has too light a flavor
and there is little doubt that if we opted for the blue
cheese sauce instead, it would have been a more interesting
dish.
Nevertheless, our plates are
wiped clean, much to the satisfaction of our grinning
waiter.
A brief respite before ordering
desert allows us time for another drink. The drinks
menu is large and varied with a selection of aperitifs,
liqueurs, fruit juices and a substantial choice of wine
ranging from a Cabarnet Sauvignon '96 at rmb120, to
a bottle of Haut Médoc AOC '94 at rmb350. Having decided
to indulge ourselves, but not completely, we agree to
another round of draught beer, which is reasonably priced
at rmb20.
A rest and a drink later we
feel ready to tackle the dessert menu. A beautifully
presented 'Fondant of White Chocolate and Toffee sauce'
(Le Fondant Ivoire & Sauce Toffée) is first to the table.
A serving of white chocolate mousse surrounded by thin
chocolate crisps and covered lightly in a caramel sauce,
this dish is nothing short of excellence. Light, textured
and rich, but without being too sweet. The 'Apple Pie
with Ice Cream' (La Tarte Tatin) is a truly authentic
tarte tatin, reminiscent of ones enjoyed in similar
establishments in Europe. The 'Floating Island in Light
Custard' (L'Ile Flottante) is the third dessert we sample
and is perfect for those in need of a sugar fix. Yet
unless you are a sickly sweet meringue fan, I would
suggest trying one of the other deserts offered. The
meal ends with the perfect espresso.
Bistro Le Gavroche is certainly
worth a trip, especially if you are in need of good
French cuisine. The environment is inviting and comfortable
although the lighting is a bit too bright and there
are times when you feel you may be sitting in a railway
station waiting room. Nevertheless, you never feel as
if you are being hurried and we indulged in a good couple
of hours of all things French before we were ready to
leave. The service is quick, efficient and friendly
and the food exemplary. Eh oui, bon appetit!
Bistro Le Gavroche
Wenlian Hotel, No. 10 Nanli, Nongzhanguan Nan Road,
Chaoyang District Bistro Le Gavroche is situated just
behind Disco Agogo on the East Third Ring Road.
Tel: 6595-8380
Hours: 10 am-12 midnight
Food: **** Ambience: ** Service:
**** Cost: $$$
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